Tracking Fertilizer Inputs

Since 2009 I have been tracking fertilizer applications made to the 78.5 acres of maintained turf we apply it to. At the end of the year this data provides me with a "big picture" look at what our fertility inputs really look like. I also break it down per area applied i.e. greens and approaches, tees, fairways and roughs. Fertility plays a very integral role in the performance of our turf. By having  this data it aids in determining how our fertilizer inputs have positively or negatively impacted the turfs performance.

For example. We like our greens to role at a certain speed. But we also need the turf to have the ability to recover against wear, defend against diseases and perform under environmental stresses. All these factors can be directly impacted by fertility. Too much nitrogen and the greens are lush and slow, as well susceptible to certain diseases. So on a season where I hear a lot of positive feedback regarding green speed I can look to the fertility values and correlate that data with conditions. I think that last season our greens consistently performed better than they have during my time here. One of the biggest factors was the fertility plan I had in place. It only took me 8 seasons to dial it in! Below is a graph showing the total of macro nutrients applied to the greens since 2009. Through the course of the season I believe I want to be applying around 2.75lbs - 3lbs of Nitrogen/1000ft sq (Click on graph to enlarge).

Not only is this information a good tool for the aforementioned reasons, but when you look at total quantities it makes me at least think about the environmental impact. Being located in the Lake Nepahwin watershed we have a responsibility to ensure that our inputs don't cause any undue harm to that water source. For that reason I have chosen to stop any granular applications of phosphorus on the property. There are two exceptions to the rule though. One being is if we have a phosphorus deficiency, second being if we are growing from seed. We do however apply it in very minute quantities in liquid form which is taken up readily by the plant and greatly reduces the chances of leaching. The greens and approaches and the fairways are the only areas where it is applied. The graph below shows the significant decrease in phosphorus applied to the 78.5 acres of maintained turf on our property since 2009 (Click on graph to enlarge).

Since phosphorus is always the nutrient that is the topic of contention, I will use it to put things into perspective. The average square footage of a Canadian home is 2000 square feet. If we follow our input amounts in 2016 that would be like spreading .2lbs of baking flour evenly over that area. On top of that it is being applied in the most economical and environmentally friendly way which is through our sprayer in minute quantities. For example the amounts range from .001lbs -.1lbs/1000 ft sq. I hope this gives some insight at just how much we monitor fertilizer inputs and how they impact the turf on which you play the game. I love a good graph!

Jay Sisko
Golf Course Superintendent

New Techniques

I've always said the most challenging part of being a turf manager in Northern Ontario is coming out of winter in good shape. While we don't have any control over mother nature we do have some control over altering negative conditions to the turf that she produces. Remember I said some. So I had been thinking, if I feel winter turf survival is the greatest challenge then maybe I should invest more into techniques that may increase the turfs chance of doing so. When I say turf I'm pretty much exclusively referring to the greens as their condition in the spring is the true measuring stick and really all that matters.

What we are trying to protect against is prolonged periods of ice cover. Turf continues to respire throughout the winter months so if it can't breath it dies, as simple as that. So the techniques below are trying to eliminate ice formation primarily but also provide an air layer/barrier in the event ice does form.

Surface Drainage
The single most important factor in my opinion is surface drainage. I you have positive surface drainage, water will not stay on the green and freeze. So improving that where we can without negatively comprimising the playability and intregual design characteristics I have tried to do so. In green design, drainage points are created through slope in some cases they were inadequate or have diminished through years of top dressing which is referred to as a collar dam. Below shows the changes we have made to improve this. Absent form the pictures is three green which the procedure was done to as well.




10 GRN extenuating drainage point

9 GRN extenuating drainage point

Protecting the CorwnThe crown is the growing point of the plant so protecting it is key. The plant has it's own mechanism by which it protects this. Through insulating with it's leaf blades and mat layer as well producing a natural antifreeze which prevents it from freezing. Our covers which we use are another form of protection but a heavy layer of sand was also applied before the covers to add another layer. Sands sub angular shape doesn't allow it to compact to a level where no pour space is left available so in theory maybe some air space could be created between the plant and ice where the sand is?

Another tool we tried this season is using a 5/8" bubble tarp (pool solar blanket/packaging bubble wrap that you love to pop) to cover the green. So bubbles down and then our traditional covers over top. This in theory will create a pretty substantial potential for air between the turf and ice if any forms, hopefully providing what is needed to get through those tough times.

18 GRN Heavy Top Dress




5/8" bubble tarp

1 GRN Bubbles Down getting ready to put on traditioanl tarp over top (10 GRN was done the same)

OxygenJust like us plants need oxygen. When ice forms on the turf it seals off any potential of the plant being able to access more oxygen once what is there is depleted. So this year I tried using a system where by I can blow air under the covers if needed. Not only will we be able to that but it provides the potential for us to elevate the tarp/ice from the surface if needed. I tried two different methods. One is whereby we created a stand for 3" pvc pipe to sit in elevating the pipe thus tarp. The pvc pipe also had holes drilled into it and day lighted to allow for ventilation if deemed necessary. So not only can we get some air circulation happening but were eliminating a low spot and creating positive drainage. The second method is whereby every 5-10' a poly tubing with holes in it is laid the length of the green and daylights to 4" drainage tile where we can blow air in expanding the tube and venting the green. It's all about getting that air space between the turf and tarp if ice forms.



12 GRN Elevated PVC with vent holes

12 GRN PVC through low spot

12 GRN vent access

3 GRN poly vent tubing

3 GRN poly vent tubing

9 GRN vent access



 These techniques are not meant to be the silver bullet but they are meant to give the turf a greater chance at survival. If were not trying new things were not evolving and getting better.

Jay Sisko
Golf Course Superintendent